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Training Tools

In addition to a full service, commercial climbing wall, Sage to Summit houses a complete training facility with everything you need to get stronger and stay that way. Below, you will find a list of some of the tools our facility has to offer, as well as examples of exercises specific to each.

The Tools

Moonboard

The Moonboard is essentially a massive climbing gym in a small space. The board is setup according to Moon Climbing’s specifications; every board in the world is exactly the same. The associated app has thousands of problems created by other users, as well as problems created by the Moon Team. The Sage to Summit Moonboard features the full spread of holds, LED lighting to make following problems easy, an in-house tablet for operating the app, and the board angle is adjustable.

Exercises

V-Max

Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced

Total Time: As much as called for in appropriate level program.

Purpose: To build max ability.

Description: To perform this exercise, basically just boulder and try as hard as you can! Pick climbs at or above your maximum level but that you think you could send within a few sessions (3 or so). The boulders you choose should be geared towards your goals and should help you to work on your weaknesses. The steeper the better! In a 30 minute Limit Bouldering session, you should work 2-3 problems, making sure to rest between attempts. 

Rep/Sets: N/A

Timing: N/A

Progression: To increase difficulty, choose harder problems. 

4x4s

Level: Beginner, Intermediate, or Advanced 

Total Time: 20-30 minutes

Purpose: The purpose of this exercise is to build Power Endurance

Description: To perform, choose 4 boulder problems below your max (it helps to choose problems of different grades, progressively getting easier). Either climb all 4, or climb one 4 times, but without resting (other than how long it takes to chalk up and get to the start again). Then rest 4 minutes. Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 sets. If you cannot complete a problem in the series, climb till failure and move to the next one. 

Rep/Sets: Each group of boulder problems is one set.

Timing: Take as long as necessary to climb the 4 problems, rest 4 minutes between sets. 

Progression: To increase difficulty, choose harder lines. 

 

Campus Board

Description: Sage to Summit houses a full Campus Board with Tension and Metolius Rungs sized Large to Small. Built to Metolius spacing and including half rungs, the Board has everything you need to build power. 

Exercises: 

Max Ladder

Level: Intermediate and Advanced

Total Time: 2-3 sets, 5 minutes per set, 10-15 minutes

Purpose: The purpose of this exercise is to build power.

Description: To perform, hang matched on the lowest rung. Leading with your right hand, pull up a few rungs. Then, pull with your left hand as far past your right as you can. Match high and drop off. As this involves both sides, split the 5 minute set time into two 2.5 minute parts, one for each side. Complete a side and then rest for the remainder of the half before repeating with the
other side dominant.

Rep/Sets: Each movement is a rep, and each group of 2, ending with the high match, is a set.

Progression: The following are based on campus rung numbers and are in increasing difficulty.The first number is the starting rung, the second number is where your grab with your leading hand, and the last number is where you pull to with the other hand and match:
1. 1-3-5
2. 1-4-5
3. 1-4-6
4. 1-3-6
5. 1-4-7
6. 1-5-6
7. 1-5-7
8. 1-5-8
9. 1-5-9
To further increase difficulty, use smaller rungs.

Doubles 

Level: Intermediate and Advanced

Total Time: 2-3 sets, 5 minutes per set, 10-15 minutes

Purpose: This exercise builds power.

Description: To perform, start matched on a low rung. Pull up and use the momentum to move both hands simultaneously to the next rung. Repeat until failure, 5-10 reps.

Rep/Sets: Each movement of the hands is a rep, each group of movements is a set. 

Progression: To increase difficulty, use smaller rungs, try to skip rungs, and/or down campus from the top instead of dropping off. This can also be done with feet on the back wall.

 

Hangboards

In the back training room, Sage to Summit has 6 hangboards: 4 Tension brand boards, Eva Lopez’s Transgression Board, and the newest iteration of the Rock Prodigy board. The hold sizes range from tiny crimps to jugs and from four finger edges to mono pockets. There are also a number of Tension sloper balls and pinches out up to help you work on these hold types. All the hangbord are positioned to make use of the pulley systems already in place. 

Exercises: 

Max Hangs 

Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced

Total Time: 2-3 holds, 2-3 sets per hold, 5 minutes per set: 20-45 minutes

Purpose: This exercise is designed to build maximum finger strength through short, intense single rep sets.

Description: To perform, hang with both hands, shoulders and elbows slightly engaged. If you can hang for more than 8 seconds, add weight in 5 pound increments.

Rep/Sets

This is a single rep exercise, so each set consists of one hang. You will complete 3 sets (hangs) per hold size.

Progression: Begin by picking 3 edge sizes, small (10-15 mm), medium (15-20 mm), and large (20-25 mm). Add or take off weight as necessary so that you can only hang each size for 3-5 seconds. When you are able to hang a hold size/weight combination for 8 seconds, choose smaller holds. Use the same method for Pinch Blocks.

Repeaters

Level: Beginner, Intermediate 

Total Time: 5 holds, 1 set per hold, 5 minutes per set: 25 minutes

Purpose: The exercise is designed to increase forearm endurance through continuous hangs with little rest.

Description: To perform, hang with both hands, shoulders and elbows slightly engaged for as long as you can. Let go, and rest 5 seconds. Then hang again, again till failure. Rest 5 seconds. Repeat 3 more times for a total of 5 hangs with 5 seconds rest in between. Complete for 5 different holds.

Reps/Set: Each hang is a rep; each group of 5 hangs is a set. 

Progression: Increase intensity by choosing more and more difficult holds to hang on.

 

Pull Up Bar

Three pull up bars, each at a different height and one of which is thicker than the other two, allow for a number of pulling based exercises. The gym also offers a pair of wooden rings, adjustable in height.

Exercises: 

Lock Offs

Level: Beginner, Intermediate

Total Time: 2-3 sets, 5 minutes per set: 10-15 minutes

Purpose: This exercise is designed to build resistance strength in the back and arms and lock-off strength.

Description: To perform, use a chair or block to bring yourself to a half lock-off (elbow at 90 degrees) on the bar or rings, depending on which is called for. Hold position for up to 10 seconds, adding or removing weight as necessary.

Rep/Sets: This is a single rep exercise. Each lock-off is a set. 

Progression: Begin by removing or adding weight so that you can only hold each position for 5 seconds. Once you are able to hold for 10 seconds, add or remove weight in 5-10 pound increments.

Momentum Ups

Level: Beginner and Intermediate

Total Time: 2-3 sets, 5 minutes per set, 10-15 minutes

Purpose: This exercise is designed to help the beginner climber prepare for the campus board. 

Description: To perform, grasp the pull up bar or rings as if for normal pullups (thumbs in). Pull up hard, pulling your chin to the bar as quickly as you can. As you reach the top of your pull, use the momentum you have generated to reach with one hands as high as you can. As you fall back down, catch the bar with your free hand and lower. Once you reach the bottom of your movement (keep the elbows slightly engaged), explode upwards again and repeat, alternating hands, until failure. 

Rep/Sets: Each pull up is a rep, each group of pullups is a set

Progression: Once you can do ten without too much difficulty, move on to the next exercise (clapping pullups).

 

Treadwall

The treadwall is an essential tool for developing general fitness and climbing endurance. Easy to use, you can climb until complete failure without having to traverse past other climbers or get off the wall. The angle is adjustable to suit your needs, from slab to overhanging,

 

Weights

Sage to Summit has a full set of dumbells available for use. The Training Room also has two weight lifting bars, as well as plates, for use in conjunction with the lifting cages.