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  • Bishop Bouldering Primer

    Photo of the Eastern Sierras

    Let us be the first to welcome you to beautiful Bishop, CA in the Eastern Sierra. We think this is one of the greatest places on Earth. We have prepared some information for you that will make your life a little bit easier so you can spend less time planning and more time enjoying the wonderful, outdoor activities that attracted you here in the first place.

    Weather

    The first thing to know a bit about is the weather. Bishop is in the high desert of California; this means that the weather, while generally sunny and dry, can still swing in some different ways. First of all, Bishop is at 4000 feet (1260 meters), with the Buttermilks nestled even higher than that. As such, the sun beats down pretty hard, so sunscreen is advisable. This also means that, generally, if it is sunny, it is likely to be warm. However, because it is the high desert, nights will often get very cold, down to freezing and below. Please plan accordingly! Sage to Summit rents tents and sleeping bags if you find you need more camping gear. Another factor to consider is the wind. Often, the wind is more of a hindrance than rain, as Bishop averages more than 300 days of sunshine a year. The wind is generally an issue in the Buttermilks, where the elevation and proximity to the mountains can allow for some howling days. The Tablelands (Happies and Sads), on the other hand, are lower and in more protected canyons.

    Camping

    There are a variety of camping options in Bishop, CA. Much of the land surrounding the town is either BLM or National Forest land; this means you are allowed 2 weeks of free camping a year here, including up at the Milks and in the Tablelands above the Happies and Sads. The local ranger station, on Main Street, has maps detailing where BLM and NF land are. If you choose to camp for free, please be aware that this is a privilege, not a right; if we climbers do not take care of the environment in which we recreate, this option will not be there in the future. Please camp only in already established spots (don’t just drive off the road anywhere to set up), please clean up after yourself, and PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE be careful with campfires. The area is incredibly dry, and fires happen quickly, especially on windy days. Better yet, do without a fire! If you do wish to have a fire, permits are required and can be found here for free.

    There are also a number of paid camping sites surrounding Bishop. The Pit, a BLM campground near the Tablelands, is popular with climbers for its affordable price ($5/night per site). Click here for more information. The Bishop Visitor website outlines the various campgrounds of varying levels of cost and facility here. The Bishop Climber's Coalition has created a map with camp grounds and public lands toilets here.

    Finally, if you need a little more comfort than camping offers, the Bishop Hostel, the Eastside Guesthouse, and Airbnb are worth checking out.

    Amenities

    Bishop, while small, has everything you need to enjoy your trip. Below are just a few of the local necessities and favorites.

    Groceries

    Bishop hosts four grocery stores, three large and one local. Vons carries everything you can expect from a large chain supermarket. Smart & Final has a bulk section that can be useful. Grocery Outlet carries cheaper products, though less of a selection. Finally, Manor Market is a small, local shop that sells local produce and meat, as well as the best beer selection in town.

    Restaurants

    The following establishments are some of our favorites here at Sage to Summit:

    The Mountain Rambler - locally brewed beer, good food, and a music schedule worth checking out. Wifi. Gluten free, vegan/vegetarian, and non-alcoholic options!

    Black Sheep - the original Bishop climber coffee shop. Wifi.

    Taqueria mi Guadalajara - Amazing Mexican food from a bright yellow taco truck!

    Salsa's Taqueria- also amazing Mexican food if you want more of a sit down vibe.

    Great Basin Bakery - Stuffed croissants and the best sourdough in town!

    Thai Thai - out at the airport, but worth the drive out of town even if you don’t plan to fly. BYOB.

    Salt - A cute little cafe in a converted Airstream trailer! Located in front of the Eastside Guesthouse.

     

    Showers

    There are a few options for showers in Bishop:

    Hostel California and Eastside Guesthouse - $5 and both take cards.

    Keough Hot Springs - a bit pricey and south of town, but full service and nice.

    Wifi

    All the coffee shops in town have Wifi. Pick your caffeinated poison. 

    Water Fill Up

    You can fill up your water at the Speedway Express on 395 just south of town. The spigots are in the back with the dump station. This is also a great place to wash and vacuum your car.

    Propane Fill Up

    Ace Hardware will fill up your propane tank for a reasonable price, and often has the small green containers for sale. You can also usually find the green containers at Vons, Eastside Sports, and some of the various gas stations.

    The Climbing

    Crimping and Heel Hooking

    One of the wonderful things about climbing in Bishop is that the 2 main areas, the Buttermilks and the Tablelands, are distinct in rock type and style. Generally, no matter what you are into, there is some climbing here for you!

    Area Ethics

    Following area ethics goes a long way towards keeping a good relationship with the locals! We love and care for our area dearly, and we would appreciate if you did too. Because we are in a high altitude desert, our environment is EXTREMELY slow to recover from damage, if it ever does. We are talking decades to centuries from seemingly innocuous acts like walking off trail, accidentally running over sage brush, surface pooping/cathole digging. That said, practicing Leave No Trace is absolutely essential! Our wonderful climbing rangers work hard to preserve our climbing areas, but they can only do so much and frankly, it shouldn't be their job to clean up after you.

    PETROGLYPHS--Please only climb on developed rock! If you aren't used to this area, it can be really hard to tell when you are climbing on a petroglyph or on an ancient Native living quarter. Most of the time, these areas are not marked as to avoid attracting more foot traffic. Don't be that guy who destroys a 10,000 year old artifact because you think you're getting a first ascent. Check out the Paiute-Shoshone Culture Center to learn more. 

    PARKING--Please only park in designated areas! If you have to park farther away and walk, do that and consider it your warm up. Don't park in front of access trails so that people have to step off trail to get around your car. Don't park in such a way that it creates a one-way bottleneck--if a large emergency service vehicle can't get past your car, you are endangering yourself and everyone around you. Please don't park on plant life--those bushes might look dead, but in the warmer months they spring to life and are essential for life to birds, insects, lizards, deer, and desert rodents. Fun fact--because sage brush grows so slowly, those bushes you see are likely over a hundred years old! 

    Finally, the 25mph speed limit might seem arbitrary, but it's actually essential to keeping dirt road in shape. Hate driving over all that washboarding? Well, they're caused by people driving too fast! 

    POOPS--As mentioned, wags bags are the way to go. Worst comes to worst, pick it up with a doggy bag, stash it under your windshield wiper, and throw it away when you get in town. Embarrassment is temporary, having your dog dig it up and eat it and lick your face is forever!

    STAY ON TRAIL--This is super important! Like we said, the desert is slow to recover and our climbing areas take a real beating in winter from traffic. PLEASE pay attention to signage, look twice to make sure you're on a rock-lined designated trail rather than a social trail, and make sure you aren't draping your stuff all over bushes and plant life. 

    VOLUNTEER--The climbing rangers host a monthly stewardship event where you can learn how to do trail work properly, methods of conservation, and help keep the areas you climb in looking spiffy. We love love love it when folks who come to visit carve out a few hours of their trip to give back!

     

    The Buttermilks

    Known for huge blocs and amazing views there are few bouldering areas in the world as picturesque as the ‘Milks. The rock here is a form of granite called quartz monzonite; the climbing trends towards the tall, the technical, and the crimpy.

    Best Warm Up Area

    There are basically two options for warming up in the Milks. The first is at the southern end of the boulder field on the north side of Grandma Peabody (that’s the MASSIVE boulder behind the first MASSIVE boulder you see when driving up). This overhanging face has a number of good, juggy, drops offs as well as some crimpy lines to get your fingers ready. The other option is on the North end of the field at the Birthday Boulders. These tend to be more vertical and technical warm ups. 

    Classics

    Hero Roof v0

    Buttermilk Stem v1

    Green Wall Essential v2

    Birthday Direct v3

    Iron Man v4

    Go Granny Go v5

    Saigon v6

    High Plains Drifter v7

    Flyboy Sit v8

    Soul Slinger v9

    Stained Glass v10

    Evilution v11 (v10 to the lip)

    The Mandala v12

    The Buttermilker v13

    The Tablelands

    The Happy Boulders and the Sad Boulders, the two main areas in the Tablelands, are so different in feel and style from the Buttermilks that they might as well be on a different planet. Where the ‘Milks are thin and techy, Tableland climbing tends towards the steep and physical. Expect big moves, steep climbing, and some pockets as well. The Happies is perfectly named; more open than the Sads, there is a ton of climbing here in every grade. The Sads tends to have the harder stuff, and there is less of it. Both are definitely worth checking out! Be warned--you should ONLY use the Chalk Bluff Road entrance to the Sads. Any other road is very rough, and uses a private road that leads to a private residence. 

    Best Warm Up Area: Happies

    The very first major sector you come up to in the Happies, the Rave Cave/Acid Wash has a number of excellent warms up and climbs from v0 all the way into the double digits. Another option is Central Happiness near the Hulk and Solarium. This sector has less easier stuff, but, being central, makes it easier to access the majority of the climbing here. 

    Classics: Happies

    Celestial rail v0

    Heavenly Path v1

    Monkey Hang v3

    Ketron Classic v4

    Solarium v4

    Serengeti v5

    The Hulk v6

    Acid Wash Right v7

    Disco Diva v8

    Acid Wash Right Sit v9

    Acid Wash Left Sit 10

    Kill On Sight v11/12

    Best Warm Up Areas: Sads

    The best warm up area in the Sads is in the very back, near the entrance to the Ice Caves. Here, there are a number of short and easy lines to play on, as well as some short and steep ones to get those big muscles ready for thuggin’ through some caves. 

    Classics: Sads

    China Doll v0

    Kipper Snapper v1

    Prozac Nation v2

    Spacesuit v3

    The Fang v4

    Strength in Numbers v5

    Rios Crack v6

    Lawnmower Man v7

    Pow Pow v8

    Slunk v9

    Beefcake v10

    Wheel of Beef v11

    The Aquarium v12

    Respect the Wildlife

    The rocks we love to climb are also the natural home of Panamint rattlesnakes. In the winter and spring, rattlesnake females depend on stable dens in the rocks where they stay warm with their sisters and care for their young. Please be mindful of your hands and feet while climbing. If you do see a snake or hear a rattle, give the snake a wide birth and go around.

    Rest Days

    Photo of the Eastern Sierras

    Even though you may want to, climbing everyday is not really possible; rest is often the key to sending! Luckily, the Eastern Sierra is every outdoor enthusiast’s dream, so here are some ideas for what to do on the inevitable rest days.

    Hikes

    The are here is packed with beautiful and easy-to-access hikes. Regardless of the weather, there is almost certainly somewhere to go check out the natural beauty on display. Below are a few of our favorites, as well as links to more information:

    Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail

    This strenuous hike out Big Pine, just south of Bishop, offers those willing to go the distance access to seven incredible, glacier-fed lakes and views of the imposing Palisades. The first lake is about 5 miles in and the last lake about 7 miles, for a total trip of 10-14 miles. You can find more information here

     

    The Beach

    The ocean is pretty far from the eastside, but we still have our own version of a beach here. Located just North of Bishop in the white mountains, this white pumice beach makes for an easy 4 mile round trip hike and a great day out. As it is tough to find information online, here are some directions: take the 6 out of Bishop for 3.8 miles and then turn right onto Silver Canyon Road. After .4 miles, make a left onto Joe Smith Rd. !.3 miles gets you to Jean Blanc Rd., where you turn right and go for half a mile to a left on Churchill Mine Rd. After 1.06 miles, make a right onto a dirt road. Be careful here, as the road gets pretty rough. The parking is on the right at 2.3 miles. From the parking, hike up the road 1.1 miles to the beach! Keep your shoes on, as there are bits of wire and glass hidden in the sand. There is another beach .8 miles farther up the road; this one has less potential hazards.  

    Discovery Trail

    One of the more amazing natural elements in the area are the ancient bristlecones, some of which are more than 4000 years old. The Discovery Trail is an easy hike, less than a mile round trip, that takes you through a grove of these trees that have been alive since before the Roman Republic began. For more information, go here

    Hot Springs

    Due to the volcanic activity in the area, there are a number of hot springs within a short drive from Bishop that can be enjoyed, offering relaxing times and soothing heat for sore muscles. There are very few things as wonderful as a cold night under the stars warmed by the hot water and steam of a naturally fed hot spring. There are a number of free hot springs in the area; an internet search will get you the information you need. Be warned: nudity is a cultural norm at hot springs--be conscious of where you park and camp so as to allow for other's comfort and privacy at the springs.

    There are also some paid springs; these are nice as they have other amenities on offer as well. Click here for more information.

    Culture

    Though small, Bishop is not bereft of local culture. If you like history, then there are some very interesting sights to see. Of special interest are the Paiute-Shoshone Cultural Center Museum and Manzanar National Historic Site. For more information on those, as well as information on some other museums and cultural sites in the are, go here.

    Sage to Summit

    Finally, we would like to let you know that we at Sage to Summit are here to help, be it by answering questions or by offering the products you might need to make your visit more enjoyable. Just so you know, here are some other things we offer that you might find useful:

    Climbing Gym

    Sage to Summit has a full service climbing gym including frequently reset walls, an adjustable angle Moonboard, and a training room in the back with weights, hangboards, and more! Perfect for warming up for the project, for getting some more fitness in after a day of climbing, or for the occasional bad weather day, we hope you’ll come check it out. For photos and more information, check out our site here

    Rentals

    We rent crash pads, guide books, sleeping bags, and backpacks.

    Books

    If you prefer to buy a guide book, we have them for sale as well!

    Basics

    We also carry all your climbing basics, from chalk, tape, brushes, pads, training tools, and skin care products. 

    We hope you consider coming to us should you need anything to make your trip more productive!